Six Senses Kanuhura

Kanuhura has been one of the Maldives' most celebrated resorts for years, and the Six Senses renovation was always going to be a fascinating chapter. The island has kept its remarkable natural appeal, with superb beaches, a magnificent lagoon and thick interior foliage, though the sleek new Retreats and The Point on the northern shore have temporarily disturbed parts of the landscaping while the fresh planting establishes itself.

Accommodation tells the story of the transition clearly. The original beach villas and suites retain the classic Maldivian character that returning guests know and love, and the generous two-bedroom options are particularly good for families and groups of friends. The new Retreats, by contrast, embrace a striking, almost severe modernism aimed at European tastes, a bold move away from the organic style Six Senses usually favours. One small quirk: only the overwater villas have beds positioned to face the ocean.

Dining still felt like a work in progress during our stay. The Spanish cooking at The Point, under chef Manuel, was excellent, and a relaxed lunch on the idyllic sandbank at Drift was a real highlight, but elsewhere the experience was inconsistent and has yet to match the standards Six Senses is known for.

Elsewhere the resort largely delivers. The rooftop bar and pool at The Point make for a glamorous social hub, while the mix of land and water activities, including revamped fitness spaces, roomy boutiques, strong water sports, tennis and squash courts and elaborate kids clubs, covers everything a luxury resort should. The spa felt a little tired relative to the investment made elsewhere, and the Earth Lab is a welcome nod to Six Senses' sustainability credentials.

Bringing the two very different design languages together and smoothing out the operational wrinkles will be the key challenges as Kanuhura settles into its new identity. The ingredients are all here, but the island has not yet fully recaptured the aura it once had. The potential, however, is unmistakable, and for both loyal repeaters and first-time visitors it offers a compelling glimpse of a beloved destination being reinvented, even if the picture is not quite complete.

Six Senses Kanuhura stretches across three private islands in the Lhaviyani Atoll, around 40 minutes from Male by seaplane. The resort sits on one of the largest beaches in the Maldives, framed by soft white sand, clear turquoise lagoons, dense tropical greenery and leaning palms that invite a long afternoon doze. Accommodation spans 91 spacious beach, family and overwater pool villas, with the lagoon lapping right at your doorstep and a lively reef offshore that shelters resident turtles and a rich array of marine life.